In False Bay, South Africa, Philippa Ehrlich learns that protecting the area’s critically endangered reef fish species is going to require people – often with different needs and agendas – to collaborate.
I pull my face deeper into the hood of my green oilskin and shudder against the icy wind. We are now into our second hour aboard the Blue Starfish and are halfway to the mouth of False Bay. It is still pitch dark and in the distance a dim horseshoe of twinkles indicates where the ocean meets the land, reminding me of how vulnerable we are as we slough through this deep, inky bay of invisible life. This is a journey that traditional hand-line fishermen have been making for generations, but it is uncertain how much longer they will be able to continue. South Africa’s commercially important line-fishes have been reduced to 10% of past levels. Specifically, popu-lations of bottom-living reef species, which make up 25% of the country’s commercial fish stocks, have collapsed.
‘My darling, you’re shivering. Turn to face the back of the boat.’ I am startled by an old fisherman who is sitting just to my right. Most of the crew are playing cards at the back of the boat or sleeping on the bunks below. The old man’s name is Yussuf*. He is not one of the crew, but used to skipper his own boat and, despite being in his 70s, he cannot bear to be away from the sea. ‘You know, Cape Town has always been a fishing place,’ he explains. ‘The pioneers of fishing were the Muslim people. Some of them were runaway slaves and some were freed slaves. When they became free they became fishermen.’
False Bay, also known as ‘die blou dam’ (the blue dam) to local communities, is a microcosm for what has happened in the rest of South Africa and in other parts of the world. A hundred years ago the bay teemed with life, and fish and fishermen thrived. Then came decades of concentrated exploitation that has decimated fish stocks. And yet, despite shrinking catches and increasing costs, the communities whose culture and livelihood were founded on fishing are still desperately clutching their lines.
As the sun creeps up over the eastern edge of False Bay, we reach the mouth and anchor in the shadow of a series of arrow-shaped peaks. About 16 other vessels surround us. Jacob Saunders*, the most experienced fisherman on the boat, is talking excitedly while he prepares his fishing gear. ‘When the fish start to bite, it puts the adrenalin right in you and you want to catch another one and another one.’ He throws in his line and almost immediately pulls in a large, shiny fish with long, razor-sharp teeth – a snoek Thyrsites atun. He grips the powerful fish under his arm and snaps its neck. Macabrely captivating as it might be, I am not here to learn about the fast-growing and migratory snoek. I am after one of the bay’s permanent and grander residents.
Castle Rock, a no-take marine sanctuary that falls within the Table Mountain National Park Marine Protected Area, lies less than a kilometre from where we are fishing. It was declared a sanctuary in 1979 and anyone lucky enough to dive there is likely to meet the aptly named red roman Chrysoblephus laticeps. In a temperate ocean of subdued hues, this fish adds a splash of glorious crimson.
A roman can grow to a length of 50 centimetres and has powerful jaws and teeth. As one of the greediest and most territorial of the fishes in the bay, this sentry of the reef is extremely vulnerable to desperate line fishermen, but at Castle Rock it is safe, along with legions of other temperate reef species. Schools of blue-black hottentot and galjoen swerve through swaying kelp passages while larger residents, like red steenbras, red stumpnose and John Browns, gawp out from dark caves and cracks between the rocks. The reserve is stuck in a time warp, when ‘die blou dam’ was still the bay of plenty.
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Back at our anchoring point, the south-easterly wind has picked up slightly. I cringe at the bone-chilling crack as another snoek loses its neck and look up to see a red rubber duck roaring towards us. Our skipper Jacob Andrews* is edgy. The boat approaches and he hands over some papers. Uniformed men read through the document carefully before eventually moving on to question another skipper. By now, much to the dismay of the crew, the snoek have stopped biting. The anchor is raised and we move closer to the shore, stopping above a rocky reef. The lines go in and soon a crimson flash breaks the surface and the first red roman of the day is pulled up into the boat.
Another rubber duck charges up to us. This time we are expecting it. Photographer Joris van Alphen and I are greeted by local dive operator Steven Benjamin, who is looking bewildered. We thank the fishermen and jump into the inflatable boat. Steve waits until we are a few hundred metres away before he explodes. ‘This is mad! There are 16 boats fishing inside the reserve and the patrol boat is watching!’ I am shocked when I realise that we are in a stretch of coast known as Paulsberg, which has been a no-take zone since 2004. The patrol team demanded to see papers from every vessel in the area, but did not mention that we were in a reserve and everyone was fishing illegally. In a place where even the law enforcers seem unaware of the conservation rules, the future for reef fishes looks very bleak.
In 2000, South Africa’s government declared a conservation emergency and reduced commercial line-fishing quotas by approximately 70%. Additional restrictions were introduced in 2005. Sadly for reef fishes, this was not enough. These endemics are long-lived and slow-growing and differ from resilient pelagics in that their complicated life histories make it very difficult for populations to recover. The red steenbras, a cousin of the red roman, is perhaps in the most precarious state of them all. Old photographs show 50-kilogram red steenbras being hooked out of False Bay in the 1920s, but now even small specimens are rare. These critically endangered fish live for 33 years and have been reduced to less than 5% of their historical population.
Disappearing diversity
South Africa’s coastline is characterised by two formidable and opposing ocean currents. The cold, nutrient-rich Benguela meanders sluggishly along in the west, carrying an enormous biomass of fish that makes this one of the most productive marine regions on the plant. Although animals thrive in huge numbers, the ecosystem’s unstable nature also means that relatively few species can survive here. In contrast, the warm Agulhas Current of the east coast is rich in biodiversity and many endemic species have found their niche within its swiftly flowing waters.
False Bay is the battleground of these ocean titans where warm and cold waters swirl together to create a unique ecosystem that hosts a combination of fish species typical of both the warmer south coast and the icy west. Before fishermen began to exploit False Bay’s reef fishes in earnest, legions of ‘red’ fishes – red steenbras, red stumpnose and red roman – were plentiful throughout the bay, but now they are seldom seen outside reserves. These are just three of a bewildering array of species; each is distinctive in appearance and behaviour, but they all exhibit complicated life histories that have brought them to the brink of disappearing altogether. Some live for nearly 50 years and only become sexually mature at the age of 10, others spend their entire lives defending their kingdom on a single reef, and many undergo a sex change at some point in their life.
Tension is inherent at every level of South Africa’s line fishery where, as resources dwindle, stakeholders become increasingly territorial over their piece of the pie, with negative repercussions for both marine life and people. ‘There is no getting away from it, our seas have been plundered. The whole face of fishing has changed. The harbours are dying because there are no fish. The communities are suffering,’ explains Paul Joubert sadly. He is a fish wholesaler who used to be a commercial fisherman.
My own conversations with fishermen confirmed these gloomy impressions. Not only are they are struggling to catch enough fish, but questionable government quota systems have meant that many line-fish boats no longer have licences. Crews live with the relentless uncertainty of how much longer they will be able to go to sea. Jacob Andrews is desperate for an alternative. He says he would even be prepared to clean harbours or beaches if the government provided a grant to keep fishermen off the water so that fish stocks could recover. Even Jacob Saunders, whose father was a fisherman for 47 years, does not want his children to fish. ‘My dear, times is changing. I tell my son, “If you want to become a fisherman, you do it as a hobby weekends only.” For him to become a fisherman in the future it will be very very hard,’ he comments grimly.
It is not just law enforcers and fishermen who are responsible for the fate of False Bay’s reef fishes. Fortunately, though, when it comes to consumer behaviour the outlook seems more hopeful. ‘I used to buy a lot of roman, but I have to follow market trends. My restaurants are all at the high end so they’re sort of trail blazers. They don’t want that fish, so I can’t sell it and I don’t buy it,’ Paul tells me. Gary Shungking, a local retailer, confirms that he too does not sell reef fishes and on the few occasions that customers ask for roman or red stumpnose, he tries to explain their conservation status. Both these fishes are listed as species to avoid on the Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative’s (SASSI) responsible consumer guide.
However, there is still a demand. I called 11 fish shops, wholesalers and restaurants to ask if they stock reef fishes and while some were emphatic about their efforts to ‘stick to the green list’, seven of the 11 said that they stocked roman – and sometimes other threatened reef species – when it was available.
This is something that Lauren de Vos, a PhD student at the University of Cape Town (UCT) finds exasperating. ‘People go to pieces for a panda, but they don’t have the same empathy for something that has gills. Yet a red stumpnose has an equally interesting story,’ she says. Months after my day at sea aboard the Blue Starfish I am back in False Bay, this time at the eastern end of the mouth with Lauren and her research crew. It is now mid-afternoon and the strengthening wind has turned the bay into a bubbly, white-flecked bouillabaisse, making it harder and harder to work.
Lauren is using underwater camera systems to create a biodiversity map of the bay. Today she has to get at least another 10 camera drops done to make this trip worthwhile. We lift the rig and winch it into the air, ready for the next deployment. We release the camera and it breaks through the surface with a large splash, followed by 50 metres of rope all the way to the bottom of the bay. Her cameras work especially well for species that are resident and defend their territory, so they are perfect for reef fishes.
Colin Attwood, an associate professor of coastal fish ecology and fisheries at UCT and Lauren’s supervisor, is skippering. ‘For fish populations to recover properly you need a moratorium on fishing. Reef fishes recover so slowly that you only need to take a couple of fish off the reef every year and you will stop the recovery,’ he explains. ‘More areas of False Bay need to be closed to fishing, so a number of reefs need to be identified and shut off – not necessarily permanently, but to allow for recovery.’
If he is correct about these temporary fish recovery zones, Lauren’s project could be key for saving False Bay’s reef fishes. She hopes to contribute to better spatial planning in the bay by determining where biodiversity is greatest and the relative abundance of different species – including humans. By mapping out who is using the bay and why, she will be able to identify particularly vulnerable ecosystems, as well as potential conflict zones between us and the other animals we share the bay with.
‘I’d like to think that False Bay is not beyond repair. It needs a reassessment of how its current MPA network is working, and a deeper look into the level of enforcement is called for,’ Lauren explains. After a successful day of field work, we are bouncing our way home. I look towards Paulsberg and wonder where the line fishermen were today. False Bay’s reef fishes are lucky to have Lauren on their side, but this is not a fight for conservationists on their own. Her project is part of a larger, complex and highly fraught situation. If red roman are to endure, all stakeholders, from desperate fishermen and under-resourced law enforcers to retailers and consumers, are going to have to take responsibility for the role they play.
Finally, we reach False Bay yacht club and after a long day on a rough ocean, Lauren’s positivity is refreshing. ‘My personal experience is that the interest and concern in False Bay is higher than I had expected and that’s very heartening,’ she smiles. The bay may be a sad example of how people have failed the natural environment on which they depend, but if conservationists like Lauren can foster cooperation between the right players, perhaps it could become a blueprint for how things can be done better in the future.
* Editor’s note: The fishermen’s names and the name of the vessel in this text have been changed to protect identities.
The Save Our Seas Foundation believes that photography is a powerful tool for marine conservation. We invite emerging conservation and wildlife photographers who have a passion for marine subjects to apply for our 2016 grant. This is a unique opportunity for photographers to go on assignment, earn an income and gain experience under the guidance of National Geographic photographer Thomas Peschak.
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